A3+ Canvas/Canvas Print Stretching and Mounting

[samdring]

Brian
I am obviously a novice! Fair point but if you are going to frame, why go to the expense and bother of the frame within a frame? Can you not mount canvas just as any other media?

[brian1208]

Sam - I'm sure its possible but I haven't yet found a suitable way of mounting canvas except for stretching it over a frame, (which is the traditional method anyway with canvas)

I've read various descriptions but none of them strike me as very archival.

Normal adhesion methods don't seem to be recommended so it seems that the options are either to staple to a wood / ply backboard or use some sort of encapsulation method to stick to the same.

The problem is to find a means of keeping the canvas taut in the frame, whilst remaining removable at a later date.

[brian1208]

possibly the definitive article on stretching, from my favourite supplier (trade) of printing and framing materials

http://www.fine-print.biz/uploads/Stret ... p%20A4.pdf

[Kevgermany]

Brian, thanks for all the reseatch and links. I think many of us will benefit fromt his in the future. I'm going to move the topiuc to the new Fine Art section as it fits better there.

[enduser]

I've been printing on canvas with a Design Jet 90 for about a year now. I mount them with image-free edges, just the white canvas showing, and place a hanging wire on the back and sell them like that.

If your image goes round the side it's called an image wrap. and with white sides, a gallery wrap. I have found that I can print finished canvases up to (almost) 18" wide and at least 48" long. I allow for the sides to be wrapped by folding under about two inches at each side. As it's an 18" printer, the total width of canvas I put through is 22', but four of those inches are folded under, two each side.

I have no idea what the Design Jet allows, but using 17mil canvas that, doubled at the edges, is 34 mil thick, I've never once had a head strike or anything other than straightforward printing. I use the Design Jet's rear straight-path feed. {I believe the DJ 30 and 130 are not so accommodating regarding thickness.}

On the advice of a commercial outfit, I finish the surface with a spray coat of Lyson Print Guard and a second rolled coat of Aqucryl, This is reputed to give many decades of light fastness indoors.

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[Kevgermany]

enduser, thanks. which canvas do you use? I guess that you use custom profiles.

[enduser]

Man, that was a quick reply, I got goosebumbs.

The specs are:

a.. Length: 12.2 Metres
a.. Weight: 360gsm
a.. Construction: Bright White Cotton/Polyester
a.. Surface Type : Medium Textured
a.. Thickness 16 mil
a.. OBA's : Yes
a.. ISO: 110
a.. Country of Origin: USA
a.. Roll Sizes: 17. 24, 36, 44 inch
a.. Sheet Sizes: N/A
a.. Pigment Inks: Yes
a.. Dye Inks: Yes

It is made in the USA and is called a budget polycotton. I buy 44' wide 40ft long rolls and use a square to cut piecse. The Design Jet is very fussy that rear-fed is absolutely square, right angle corners and parallel sides.

On the underside, after I fold over the two sides, I cut the folded bit at the leading edge at an angle to assist feed,

I've also used Brilliance Natural Fine Art Inkjet Canvas, by "Breathing Color" a US supplier with a strong international distribution.

Both canvases give amazing results and after much experimenting I use the supplied HP profile called Premium Plus Satin. Can't see the point of anything else, the results are so good. I print from Qimage.

(Let's try an image)




The first is a digital painting done in "Painter" and is 18" x 28", the second is a 16" x 40".

A bit big, sorry.

[Kevgermany]

Thought I'd tak my time this time, don't want you having a heart attack, do we...

Nice stuff, thanks for the info.

[Kevgermany]

Brian

Thanks again. Have just mounted my first canvas print, following the links & your advice. No real problems, except that A3 canvas is a little small for a 20x30 stretch. It's easier than I thought, but loks as if getting good corners will take more practice.

I ended up working myself into the corners before doing them, so they're a little messy, but I'll get a frame to go over the canvas & no-one will notice.

Next time I'll print a little bigger to cover the sides and an overlap for the back.

[brian1208]

I just spotted this thread again and thought I would update it with some experiences of mounting the canvas direct onto board (responding to a query earlier in the thread).

Originally I didn't think it would work but I have now made 20 or more prints mounted in this way (and have sold more than half to satisfied customers).

So - the technique is very simple - BUT - not "archival".

I asked people I met at various galleries, exhibitions and craft fairs how important truly archival canvases were to them in deciding whether to buy or not. Their answer generally was that it had very little consequence to them as they were buying pictures as part of the household decorative schemes - not as museum pieces.

SO - this is how I do it:

Print the image onto canvas in the usual way - leaving a white edge of about 1/2 inch all round (I'm sticking with HP 36" roll canvas for panoramics and A3+ HP sheet for the rest). (For panoramics I cut a 13" wide strip horizontally across the roll which gives a good reference edge for straightening the sheet in the printer - no more crooked prints! )

Select a suitably sized piece of board (I find 1/4" high density MDF is good) and sand down the edges just enough to chamfer the sharp corners

Use high quality professional canvas wall-paper adhesive (non-staining) and apply a thick, even coat to the board then lay the canvas onto this. The slip makes it quite easy to position it correctly.

Using a squeegee roller working from the centre outwards LIGHTLY roll the canvas flat but don't try to wrap the edges or make the corners at this stage

When dry, coat the the canvas with two coats of a suitable varnish (I use the Glamor matte varnish, remembering to keep stirring to keep the solids in suspension)

When that is dry (usually I leave at least 2 days) I turn the board over and pull the edges tight around to the back - stapling down, make the corners as you do on a normal stretcher

I then either finish it off by putting it into a suitable frame or if I'm producing it as an unframed image I give it a final coat of varnish, making sure that the edges and back are well coated.

As I say, I've sold a good number and had very positive reactions to them (making sure that the customers know what it is they are buying and pricing it accordingly) I have several hung at home which I have dragged around countless exhibtions and craft fairs and they still look pristine with no signs of bubbling, lifting or other defects

Well, there it is - it may be of interest to someone

Brian

edit - I've not experienced adhesive bleed through, staining or colour change but I strongly recommend that you run a few test pieces yourself before trying this on an important commission - this information is given in good faith but without guarantee of success!

[Kevgermany]

Thanks Brian, and thanks again for the earlier advice, was really useful.

[ChrisByq]

I'm just starting out on canvas printing and using an Epson 3800. The results are great but I think I need a protective laminate to prevent scratching and the print rubbing off when folded round the edges of the stretcher wrap.

I have just tried my first application of Glamour 2 Matte coating but seem to have a problem with dust and fluff. Any ideas how to prevent or minimise dust? Do you think it would work if I put it on the cooker hob and turned the extractor fan on for an hour?

[ogibson]

Cant help appreciate the suggestions here. I had asked so many people known to me to get suitable answers on the Canvas print stretching and mounting but was not getting any reliable help. Finally this was the place for me. After a detailed reading of the suggestions I am confident I can overcome the hurdles I was facing in doing the same. Well had I not found this I would have been left with no option but to take professional help to have my work done. So you all saved me from that too, many thanks.

[Kevgermany]

Chrisbyq - sorry, missed your post. About all I can suggest is working in a dust free environment, which isn't so easy.

Ogibson - it's quite easy, once you've done a few. I found the other posts here really helpful. It helps to have a large overlap - If that's not there it's difficult to get a decent grip on the canvas when you're stretching it. Decent pliers are a must - and worth the extra over the cheapos which don't grip very well. Staple guns are cheap enough so no messing with hammers while you're trying to hold the canvas in place.

[poah]

did my first canvas stretch tonight. not the best you'll ever see lol but I'm confident I'll improve


printed on A3+ matt canvas and put on 35x25cm stretcher bars although I should be able to use 40cm ones ok or longer if I use a roll (I use a R2400)

for this size I'll need to trim the cornerso make them flatter though