Page 1 of 3
A3+ Canvas/Canvas Print Stretching and Mounting

Posted:
Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:38 pm
by arimus.uk@googlemail.com
Can someone recommend where in the UK I can find a suitable supply of A3+ canvas sheets for use in B9180.... been trying to 'google' a supplier of it but not getting very far as I'm finding a number of hits but don't really know which canvas is the one to go for.
(The majority of prints are subtle landscapes)

Posted:
Wed Jan 03, 2007 5:41 pm
by brian1208
Ameiva have two boxes
http://www.ameiva.co.uk/index.php?secti ... m,_380_g/m²,_25_Sheets
excellent company with rapid service and low prices (they are my main supplier)

Posted:
Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:44 pm
by samdring
£44 +VAT at
www.consumableitems.co.uk which is quite a bit cheaper.

Posted:
Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:18 am
by arimus.uk@googlemail.com
Thanks for that Sam,
As soon as I get permission from the wife to spend more money

I'll be ordering a pack...

Posted:
Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:06 pm
by GaryClough
Wow, I hadn't actually reaslised it you could make your own canvas prints, I am definitely sold on this printer now, hope to order one this weekend.
Has anyone come across a web site which gives practical tips on how to frame your own canvas prints? Is it just a matter of creating a pine frame from some baton? What is the best way to stretch the canvas tight and how do you deal with the folds on the corners?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Posted:
Sat Jan 06, 2007 9:38 pm
by brian1208
I use canvas stretcher bars or cheap pre-mounted canvas box-frames (3/4" deep side). The largest I can get a decent result with from an A3+ sheet is 16"x12" but that does need putting in a box frame as the long edge is stapled on the outside. 14"x11" with 3/4 inch deep edges allows a complete wrap and looks tidy without the box frame.
I start by stapling the centre of each side, pulling tight, then move to the corners. You will need to find the tidiest method that works for you, it is too easy to end up with an ugly bunch but I find pulling the centre of the corner tight diagonally works for me. I then make a sort of "hospital corner wrap (easy to do, impossible to describe).
Finally I work the edges taut, stapling from the original centre staples out toward to the corners.
I varnish next (usually two coats) and when dry put in the tensioning wedges in the back of the frame.
Seems to do a nice job ( so much so that I've been asked by a friend to mount some of his canvases too!)
I reckon its about an hours work in total.
Hope this is of some use, expect to mess up a couple of times but if you are careful you can always get the canvas off and start again.
Watch the surface of the uncoated canvas by the way, I've knocked off the odd flake using several different canvas materials, including the HP version. Once varnished they seem pretty robust.
Good luck and have fun

Posted:
Sat Jan 06, 2007 10:43 pm
by Kevgermany
Brian, I think this is something of interest to many of us. Any chance of a few pics/tutorial? Where do the canvas stretcher bars come from? What do you mean by box frame. What are tensioning wedges? Do they come with the frame?

Posted:
Sat Jan 06, 2007 11:59 pm
by brian1208
I'll see what I can do, but I'm very much a self taught amateur.
Canvas stretcher bars can be got from any art supplier, they come in pairs + the wedges that tension the frame later. So, one would buy say, a pair of 14" and a pair of 11" bars for a 14X11 canvas. The corners are pre cut to 45 degree miter joints for easy assembly.
The "box frames" are pre-assembled stretcher frames with a canvas already applied. I find that some cheap shops locally have them in for less than a set of professional bars. They also have a benefit (in my mind) that the canvas provides a tough backing to prevent a clumsy person such as myself from making a hole in the image canvas!
The wedges fit into holes in the back of the frame and once the canvas is attached are tapped into their holes, stretching the frame and tightening the canvas.
As I say, I'll have a look for a suitable reference site or failing that, try to put some images together
Brian

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:47 am
by brian1208
here's a starter slide show I found
http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/photo/0 ... ng/_slide_
doesn't show the stretching wedges though so I'll look for that
another
http://www.artsparx.com/canvasstretching.asp
Off to bed now - I'm knacked


Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:52 am
by Kevgermany
Thanks... Much appreciated!

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:16 am
by fazer101
Try this site for 'art' supplies, I have found them to be very good.
www.artdiscount.co.uk

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:45 am
by brian1208
A search on "canvas stretching" seems to be most productive, I even found HP have a guide!
http://h41186.www4.hp.com/country/us/en ... ntry_id=12
and this one which is possibly the clearest
http://www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/50537/527/
One thing I note is that they all seem to leave the corners until last, I tried that and found it more difficult than doing it the way I describe. It would be worth experimenting to see which approach suits you best

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:40 pm
by Kevgermany
Now all I need to do is get a good canvas print, some stretchers and give it a go. Thanks for all the help!

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 2:53 pm
by samdring
Yes thanks Brian very useful. The last 2 examples you posted (today) both seem to advocate stapling on the edges of the frames rather than the backs - suspect rather too visible?

Posted:
Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:08 pm
by brian1208
I prefer to staple on the back if possible but if the canvas is going to be framed then stapling down the edge could make for a neater corner