Doing the whole package

Use this forum to discuss, printing techniques, media, inks and other matters relating to producing Fine Art Prints.

Moderators: gcrogers, Kevgermany, Costas L

Re: Doing the whole package

Postby bez » Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:32 am

I think this is what pat means, but he should answer. It makes a difference in two ways, particularly if the mounted print is ever out of the frame, as one might prepare it prior to framing.
Hinging to the back board means the tape hinge is on the front edge of the print (not so good) but if you raise the window matte (also hinged) the print remains flat on the back board.
Hinging to the window matte means tape is on the back of the print (better) but it swings in the breeze if you raise the matte.
On hanging, one nice thing about the Ikea method for example (hardboard clips, which you can buy from framing suppliers) is the frame hangs flat to the wall because it’s supported near the glass, where all the weight is.
D rings and cord (or wire) attached to the back edge of the frame usually means it hangs away from the wall at the top, which is not so nice.
Posts: 3738
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:16 am
Location: england

Re: Doing the whole package

Postby The Crofter » Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:55 pm

For low value items I will use a conservation front mat (or two) and Art-Bac conservation backing board. Place the hinging tape on the back of the print and position the front mount aperture to suit the image. Press down in the area of the tape and flip the whole lot over. The tape must be burnished to ensure correct adhesion. Art-Bak is wondefull stuff. Fairly rigid corrugated board with a white conservation quality facing board. The white side is placed over the back of the art which can help to brighten the picture as well. The board has a slight concave bow when laid this way up which helps press the art to the front mount keeping it flat.

The more traditional approach is to cut the front board(s) and a second board the same size. Cut the front aperture(s). Lay the art on the uncut board and position the whole sandwich. Carefully remove the top board(s) and use a "delicate" method to hold the art in place at the lower edge. Use mulberry or similar strips and paste vertically under the top of the art - never the front. Take two more strips and paste them horizontally across the exposed vertical strips to make a T shape. Allow to dry. Create a final sandwich by hinging the rear mount to the front. This then ensures everything will stay in place when put in the frame. Should the picture ever need reframing or remounting then this method makes life very much simpler.

So when to use the different techniques ?. Well you can of course use the mulberry/starch option all the time and is a good selling point. However if you get busy then you have to think about the extra time needed plus the additional costs. Whatever you do, if you offer a true conservation framing option then self adhesive tape is not to be used. Some people say the art is at risk if taping to the front mount

Incidently I regularly mount 1m panoramic prints using the front mount method, just two pieces of tape and never had a problem...:)
The Crofter
Posts: 907
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:54 am
Location: NW Highlands, Scotland

Re: Doing the whole package

Postby davidgaynor » Sat Aug 08, 2009 2:09 pm

Brilliant info throughout.
This thread will be a great point of reference. Thanks everyone.


David Gaynor.
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:27 am

Re: Doing the whole package

Postby gcrogers » Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:54 pm

I second David's comment. I have kicked the idea of 'setting up shop' to do it myself as well, never really researched it. Almost all of my unasked questions have been answered here. Thanks to all who posted.
User avatar
Site Admin
Posts: 2097
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 5:29 pm
Location: Indiana, USA


Return to Fine Art Printing

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest