Framing advise requested

[Sigma]

Thanks for the backing tape tip, the professional framers locally use 3/4" masking tape which over time drys up and falls off and I'm not keen on that. What should I look for specifically?

I used a Logan mount cutter, thats the trouble. Doing it by eye with a Stanley knife and a metal straight edge from the face side I always get perfect straight cuts, but this fancy cutter which works from the reverse side hooks at the beginning of every cut and I have no idea why or how to prevent it. I will redo it with a fresh mountboard using my old method as I know that works.

[bez]

Gummed brown paper tape will never come off.
Do you have the Logan Team, which hooks onto its own straight edge? Make sure you plunge the blade right through the card before you start pulling (or pushing) - it shouldn't hook, but the blade may be bending - how thick is the card?

[The Crofter]

the professional framers locally use 3/4" masking tape

Any professional framer worth his/her salt would not use masking tape but I know some do and it is really bad practice. As mentioned, gummed tape is probably the best solution although it can be harder to work with than a self adhesive tape - until you get the knack. I would recommend Eco 25+ tape from Lion and have been using this for 10 years.

The Logan (not sure which version you have) should be capable of good cuts but a common mistake is to have the blade depth set too deep. It should only slightly protrude into the scrap mat and is worth experimenting to get this right. Lower end cutters do not have the blade supported as well as more expensive models. One solution is to not cut through the board completely when starting the cut, instead just do say 1mm for 20mm - return to the start of the cut and cut deeper - do this again for the final cut and then the full length in one go. This is easier if the Logun clamps the cutting bar to the mount.

Also change the blade very frequently. I use a Keencut Ultimat Gold and change the blade after every 4 cuts, my blades are reversible so that keeps the cost down but blades are cheaper than mountboard.

[bez]

If you want to get serious about mount cutting the KeenCut ones are very good. I don't have an Ultimat Gold, but the 55” Artist Plus which is very similar, and I don’t change my blade every four cuts but probably should.
I started with the Logan Team which worked fine, but doesn’t have the speed, accuracy and sophistication of the KeenCut.
As Pat says whichever one you use make sure the blade only cuts about 1mm deeper than the mountcard