Gaoersi 6x17 Camera

The black numbers and dots are on the paper backing of the film; the off-white numbers and lines are on the window of the camera. They’re probably easier to see if your film doesn’t have white paper backing.

You’ll see there are four “0” points across the top of the window. These are the indicators you use to wind on for your first exposure on a roll of film.

Then, when you take further exposures, to see how many numbers on the film backing you wind on by, you can consult the Format Change knob:

Obviously the Format Knob must be pointing to the correct format before you take the shot. It also tells you how much to wind on. If shooting in 6x12 format you wind on by 2 numbers on the film, for 6x15 it’s 2½ and for 6x17 it’s 3.

You can estimate fractions from the numbers and markings on the film. In the film number window (second-to-last picture), the position for 6½ is just to the right of the big dot.

If you’re changing formats mid-roll, you read the outer numbers on the top of the knob. Changing between 6x17 and 6x15 you advance 2¾ numbers, changing between 6x15 and 6x12 you advance 2¼ numbers and changing between 6x17 and 6x12 you advance 2½ numbers. It may sound a bit complex but it’s all quite simple really. You just have to bear in mind how much space you have left at the end of the film.

On a roll of 120 film you’ll get four exposures at 6x17, five at 6x15, six at 6x12 and then there are various combinations. Usually with 120 film it’s better to wind on after you take a shot to avoid the risk of double exposures. In this case it’s better to wind on when you take a shot because it’s only at that point you’ll know what format the shot will be (and therefore how much to wind on).

Build Quality

Build quality seems to me to be very good. The camera back for example fits so closely that you really need two hands to ease it off. Winding on of the film works well and just looking at the camera back I feel confident that it will hold the film flat.

Taking a Shot

Taking a shot involves a sequential ritual of a rather manual nature:

Ensure that Format Change knob is pointing to the correct format
Read how much to advance the film off the Format Change knob
Advance film to correct position
Ensure preview button on lens is not on (i.e. shutter is not open)
Fire off shutter a couple of times to check operation
Remove lens cap
Remove darkslide
Take exposure using a hand-held exposure meter
Take the shot
Replace dark slide
Replace lens cap
Do not wind the film on at this point

Hand holding is not generally viable at 6x17 because you will need to stop the lens down to something like f22 to cover the format – it may be more viable at 6x12, especially if you use 400 ISO film. Even so, it defeats the purpose of the camera somewhat – this is really a camera to use on a tripod.

Results

The next step is to look at some results from this camera. I’ve taken two rolls of film in my immediate environment using available lighting conditions. The first roll was mainly taken at the new building where I work. The second roll was taken over the back fence. As it happens, I live in an inner suburb of Australia’s National Capital and there’s 10,000 acres of native bush over my back fence.

I’ll cover what I do to scan these images, how I optimise them in Photoshop and what I do to print them out. I’ll be brief because there is lots of good documentation for both Silverfast and Photoshop. My scanner is calibrated (using Monaco EZColor and Wolf Faust targets) which is useful for slides but not essential. More importantly, my monitor is calibrated using a colorimeter (Monaco Optix).